I spent all my summers
between eleven and nineteen at the Composers' Union resort in
Karelia, near the once Finnish town of Sortavala, by the Ladoga lake.
The territory was annexed by the Soviet Union after WWII, but all
places, villages, rivers, bays, lakes had Finnish names, and in the '60s there
were still ruins after burnt-out Finnish houses. The area was so
close to the border that you needed a permit; therefore the nature
was as pristine as it was under the Finnish government.
The resort had a central
building, which was claimed to have been Marshal Mannerheim's hunting
lodge. Whether true or not, it was indeed a magnificent manor, with a
huge front staircase, elegant sittings rooms and a dining hall with
dark roof beams. I have no pictures from my childhood because we
didn't have a camera then, and I only found a few pictures on the
web. It doesn't match my memory, but it's over forty years ago.
There were some guest
rooms in the building, but most families lived in small cottages
within easy walking distance, some with direct access to the
waterfront. People would rent a rowing boat for the whole season;
some people, including my father, had light motors that allowed us to
go further away into the archipelago where we had our very own
island. We would bring a picnic and stay for the whole day, cooking
over open fire, and very frequently cooking our own catch.
The most common catch was
pike, but occasionally you got pike perch and, with luck, salmon. The
gear was either casting rod or reel, and my job was rowing. If you
have never rowed a boat while someone is casting you have no idea how
hard it is, especially in windy weather, and what a risk you are
taking by sharing the boat with a loved one. I had no choice, because
my father simply gave me orders, but he once set off my mother on a
tiny cliff in the middle of a vast water span, to untangle a line.
With casting, you have to row smoothly and absolutely silently
because the b-y fish hear the slightest splash. You need to watch the
direction of the wind and the incoming waves. You need to balance the boat so that the caster doesn't fall overboard. You have to watch out
for underwater cliffs and floating logs; you need to steer the boat
close enough to the reeds where the fish is, but not too close so
that you lose the lure. And when there is fish on the hook, you
manipulate the net, and the kind of language you hear if you are
clumsy and the fish escapes... yes, it would make a sailor blush.
Every day we would also
set up a longline, with live bait, for eel and burbot. It had to be
checked and re-baited twice a day, early in the morning before
breakfast, and late in the evening. Summer evenings are long and
light in Karelia; water surface would be like a mirror, and every
sound was carried around for miles.
I miss those days with my
father in a boat.
On rare occasions, I was
allowed to cast a couple of times, just to practice, and I did catch
fish when I had a chance. My father kept a log, giving all fish funny
names.
It was my job to gut and
cook the fish. There were several cooking methods which I learned
very early, all over open fire, since we didn't have a kitchen. For
clear triple fish soup, you first cooked small fry with spices, then
strained, added pieces of larger fish, cooked until it fell apart,
strained again, and for the last round you only added burbot,
particularly the liver, a delicacy to share around (and all the foul
language I heard from my father when I wasn't careful enough with the
liver and spilled the gall). The soup was thick as glue, and a small
cup was enough to make you full. But the best way was to smoke the
fish, particularly eel, and as soon as I could be trusted with an
axe, I would cleave young alder to line the smoking box, fill it with
fish, close the box tight, make an even fire under it, knowing the
exact time for every kind and size of fish. Serve it steaming hot,
without plates.
I miss those evenings by
the fire.
The irony is that Staffan
also used to be passionate about fishing, but we never pursued this
passion together, although Stockholm archipelago was no worse than
Sortavala and very similar. I have asked Staffan repeatedly, and he cannot give a
proper answer. It just didn't happen.
We once went shark fishing
in Morocco, and we went deep-sea fishing in San Diego when I got
terribly seasick; and I had the thrill of fishing piranhas in Brazil,
but all that was tourist fishing.
Why do you stop doing
something that used to be the gist of life?
1 comment:
because life moves on to other meanings.
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